Luna Explores Europe
2 Weeks in the Baltics: Epic Route Through Estonia, Latvia & Lithuania
I'm Luna, and a few years ago I began exploring Europe with my wonderful boyfriend. I’m eager to share my adventures, tips, and more with fellow travelers. So far, I've embarked on 8 trips and visited 12 countries.
Our two-week trip through the Baltic States in the summer of 2024 has been one of the most memorable journeys I've ever taken. It was our first real road trip, and to be honest, we could have prepared better. For example, my car horn wasn't working, and we hadn't considerend how long it would take to reach our first destination in Poland - Poznan. Looking back, we should have spaced out the distances more evenly, and we packed in too many destinations and sights at too quick a pace.
But that's how you learn!
Because our schedule was so packed, we discovered that the Baltic States are far from all the same. They're about more than just the (mostly still) Orthodox capitals of Vilnius, Riga, and Tallinn. You'll also find gorgeous national parks, like Gauja National Park in Latvia, and countless castles, such as Trakai Island Castle. Plus, the cuisine is incredibly diverse - everything from cold beet soup to venison stew, a popular dish in Estonia.
There are plenty of similarities among the Baltic countries, but also many differences, and I'm thrilled that I got to experience all of them.
Here is my (optimized) Baltics itinerary!
Day 1, 2 & 3: arrival in Vilnius
(the first of three capitals in the Baltics)
Use your first day to rest after the journey, because you'll have another day in Vilnius. If you'd like, you can take a stroll around the neighbourhood after checking in and grab a bite to eat.
Viewpoint Gediminas Castle Tower
On the following day, you can spend your time in various ways, depending on your interests.
Did you know that the historic center of Vilnius is generally believed to contain between thirty and forty churches? It's known for its remarkably dense collection of churches - Catholic, Orthodox, and even a few Protestant - clustered relatively close together.
We chose to explore the interiors of many of these churches. You could also climb Gediminas Castle Tower for a breathtaking view of the city.
At the entrance to the famous bell tower, you can buy tickets and reserve time slots for activities such as a guided tour of the cathedral's tombs and climbing the bell tower itself. They even offer discounted combination tickets!
I highly recommend taking a break at Crustum Bakery, near the start of the main street. You'll find some of the most delicious Lithuanian savory bites and sweet treats there. We ended up sampling a selection of both.
Day 4: Daugavpils
This city might not be a stunning beauty in and of itself, but it's home to an attraction that's well worth a visit: Daugavpils Fortress.
Built in the nineteenth century and strengthened under various Russian Tsars, it was once guarded by around 3,300 soldiers and 200 cannons.
In the first half of the twentieth century, the fortress began to lose its status. It was used by the Latvian Army as a base camp, and during World War II, the German Army turned it into a prison for Soviet Soldiers.
Today, the fortress - quite large in size - is free to explore. In a fascinating twist, regular Latvian citizens actually live within its walls!
Day 5 & 6: Gauja National Park and Cesis
The day we strolled through the natural beauty of Gauja National Park was, I think, my favorite day. There aren't only plenty of gorgeous hiking routes but also loads of fun activities!
This national park is special for a number of reasons, including a large, gently meandering river that both begins and ends in Latvia!
There are a few castles worth visiting - Turaida Castle in Sigulda and Cesis Castle - and both are definitely worth your time.
A little further inside the park, you'll find an adventure park where you can go tobogganing (it's a lot of fun!). There's also a cable car with regular service that takes you across the river, offering fantastic views.
By far the most exciting activity was bobsledding! You don't steer the bobsled yourself; you ride under the guidance of a team who really know what they're doing. Trust me, you won't want to miss out on this experience!
Day 7: Tartu
Halfway through your journey, you arrive in Estonia and immediately sense a more international, modern, and perhaps more artistic atmosphere. In 2024, Tartu was named the European Capital of Culture, and it definitely lives up to that title.
We treated Tartu mainly as a rest day rather than a major sightseeing stop, spending most of our time simply wandering around the city.
If you're a true museum enthusiast, though, Tartu is the perfect place to be - it's home to a rich variety of museums, with more than 20 institutions showcasing different aspects of culture, science, and history.
The highlight of our Tartu experience, however, was the skeleton of a church.
Day 8, 9 & 10: Narva, the Baltic Klint and Tallinn
(was actually the last capital we visited during our trip through the Baltics)
Another highlight - and in our opinion, a truly must-see destination - is the border town of Narva, situated directly opposite the Russian town of Ivangorod. Spending the day there felt like a unique experience.
Be sure to visit Narva Castle (also known as Narva Fortress), which offers magnificent views across the Russian border. You can also admire the old Soviet architecture in the area.
Not too far away, you'll find the Baltic Klint - an eroded limestone escarpment spanning roughly 1,200 kilometers, from the Swedisch island of Öland through the Baltic Sea to Estonia and Russia. It's a beautiful spot for lunch (just remember to take all your trash with you!).
You can spend a relaxing evening in Tallinn afterward.
Ivangorod Fortress
There's so much more to discover in Tallinn. The old city center makes you feel as though you've stepped back into the Middle Ages.
Admire the city walls and churches, then enjoy the experience of a lifetime at Peppersack Restaurant. While I love exploring historical site, I'm especially drawn to immersive experiences at mealtime.
At Peppersack, you can savor traditional dishes in a medieval setting, even drinking from goblets! On wednesdays, there's a dinner show performed by the staff - a hilarious sword fight over a damsel in distress, straight out of a medieval tale.
Day 11 & 12: Riga
(was actually the second capital we visited during our trip through the Baltics)
Riga took us by surprise. In our view, two must-see attractions are the House of Blackheads and the viewpoint from St. Peter's Church Tower.
The House of Blackheads is beautifully decorated, featuring ornate ceilings and plenty of information about Riga's history. On the upper level, you'll find grand ballrooms where many prestigious events were once held, including welcoming ceremonies for kings, queens, and presidents, as well as cultural gatherings.
It's truly impressive and majestic.
You can head up the tower of St. Peter's Church any time of day, and it's not exactly a climb since there's an elevator! We decided to go in the evening at sunset, which really gives you the best and most beautiful view of the city.
Oh, and if you enjoy trying local drinks, you have to try Riga Black Balsam! This strong liquor is served undiluted in a shot glass, and it packs a bigger punch than the well-known Jägermeister.
Day 13: Hill of Crosses & Klaipéda
Between Riga and Klaipéda lies an extraordinary historical site: the Hill of Crosses. This impressive hill features thousands of crosses, reflecting the Christian tradition of leaving one behind.
Lithuania is home to numerous pilgrimage sites.
Over time, the Hill of Crosses has even gained UNESCO status. Today, non-Christians also choose to leave crosses there.
When you reach Klaipéda, I highly recommend taking the ferry to the so-called "Hill of Witches." And for dinner, be sure to order the Lithuanian Tasting Menu - you won't regret it!
I can confidently say that it was one of the best meals I've ever had. The restaurant we dined at was called Katpedele. You can even dine on the boat with a fantastic view - at no extra charge!
Day 14 & 15: Siluva, Kaunas and Trakai
The final destinations lie further inland in Lithuania. On your way from Klaipéda to Trakai (about a 30-minute drive from Vilnius), you'll come across the important pilgrimage site of Siluva.
Here you'll find two significant Christian relics: the stone where the Virgin mary is said to have appeared weeping centuries ago, and a shrine inside the basilica.
It's a wonderful place to reflect on Europe's long Christian history.
In Kaunas, you'll also find plenty of churches, but there are great cafés and shopping spots too! For us, Kaunas had much the same vibe as Tartu.
Don't forget to take the stairs to the viewpoint just outside the city - you'll need to cross the bridge to get there.
Trakai is a gorgeous nature area featuring a castle on an island, ideal for enjoying summertime activities. We opted for a beat trip across the lake. This way, you can admire the castle from the water.
If you want a taste of local cuisine, be sure to try the fresh kibinai. These flaky pastries are stuffed with fillings like minced meat, and they're absolutely delicious!
